The Golden Meridian

Lake Como · Italy

Lake Como in October

Old-world villas mirrored in alpine water.

white concrete building near body of water during daytime — Lake Como, Italy
Photo by Lewis J Goetz on Unsplash · Unsplash Licence

October hands the lake back and charges you in weather. The day-trip coaches thin out, the promenades empty, rooms loosen, and in exchange autumn is the wetter half of the Como year — so the month rewards a flexible itinerary and punishes a fixed one. Come with a list of things you would like to do rather than a schedule of when you will do them.

The month has two halves

Early October still behaves like the tail of the season. Most things are open, the boats are still running a fuller pattern, and the towns have people in them without having crowds. Warm afternoons are common and the water still holds summer heat, which is what produces the mornings people remember here: mist sitting on the surface at eye level with the villages, burning off by the middle of the morning.

The back half of the month is a different proposition. Garden villas start closing for winter, the scheduled timetable contracts, and hotels along the shores begin shutting one by one until spring. Nothing about that is a problem if you know it before you book — it is a problem if you arrive on the last day of the month expecting the last day of September.

Early October Late October
Boats A reduced but useful pattern across the central basin Thinner again; check the day's sailings before you plan around one
Gardens and villa houses Generally open, and quiet Closing for the season, some already shut
Towns Lively enough, without the summer pressure Genuinely quiet; some hotels and restaurants closed
Weather Warm afternoons between fronts, cool mornings Wetter, shorter days, the hills turning
Rooms Easier than September, and cheaper Easiest of the year that is still worth having

What the month is actually good at

Walking, mostly. The paths on the slopes above the shore are unpleasant in August heat and excellent now, and the view down onto the fork between the arms is the view the whole lake is arranged around. The hillsides turn through October, the light comes in low and sideways along the water, and photographs taken in this month look nothing like the flat midday glare of July.

Crossing the water still works, and this is the part people get wrong when they write the month off. Scheduled boats on the central basin carry on through the autumn on a reduced pattern, so Lake Como: Varenna & Bellagio By Private Boat and Ferry — a full day linking the two by boat and public ferry, with time on foot in each — remains a sensible way to spend a bright October day without a car. Read it as a day out rather than as shelter: it is a day spent moving between two towns in the open, and a wet forecast is a reason to move it, not to keep it.

Catch the gardens while the season lasts. Admission to the terraced gardens of Villa Cipressi in Varenna is walked at your own pace, the planting steps down to the water, and an October afternoon on those terraces has almost nobody else on them. Outdoors, obviously, so it belongs on a clear day rather than a grey one.

Who should come, and who should not

Come in October if you want the towns without the tide, if you would rather walk than swim, and if you can move a plan by a day when the sky says so. Do not come if the trip is built around a single fixed outing, if you want a swimming holiday, or if you are travelling late in the month and need a particular village to be fully awake when you get there.

Availability is easier now than at any point since spring but the good rooms on the central basin still go, so comparing current stay and experience options across your dates is worth doing early. Where to base yourself, and what a week here actually costs, have pages of their own.

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