The Golden Meridian

Florence · Italy

Florence with family

The Renaissance, still in residence.

white and brown concrete dome building during daytime — Florence, Italy
Photo by Jonathan Körner on Unsplash · Unsplash Licence

Florence is easy on the legs and hard on the patience, and that is the whole problem with children here. Nothing is far away — the centre can be walked end to end inside half an hour — so the usual family worry about distance simply does not apply. What breaks the day is standing still: in a queue, in a ticket hall, in a room where the interesting thing is on a wall and cannot be touched.

Plan the standing, not the walking

Treat patience as the resource you are budgeting, the way you would budget legs on a coast or shade on an island. A child who has walked a mile through arcaded streets is usually fine. The same child after forty minutes on a pavement outside a gallery is finished for the afternoon, and so is everyone with them.

The day's parts Demand on a child Handle it by
Walking between things Low, and often the best part Letting it take as long as it takes
Queueing to get in The highest cost of all Booking timed entry, always
A big gallery High after the first half hour Going in early, going in short
Markets and workshop streets Low — there is something to look at Using them as the recovery stretch
Climbing something for a view Moderate, and usually worth it Doing it before lunch, not after
Sitting down to a long lunch Higher than parents expect Eating shorter and earlier

Book the doors in advance, then keep the visits short

This is the single change that makes Florence work with children. Florence Accademia Gallery Tour with Entrance Ticket Included is the model for it: a guided visit to the gallery holding the David, with the timed entry carried inside the booking so the queue outside never becomes part of the morning, and short enough to end while goodwill remains. An hour of art that lands is worth more than three that do not.

Uffizi Gallery Tickets plus Archaeological Museum Access is the other useful shape, because of the second half. The painting galleries are a stretch for younger children; a room of Etruscan and Egyptian objects, cases you can walk around, is an easier proposition, and having both on one booking means the day can be abandoned halfway without anything being wasted.

Some things are simply not for this trip. The Artisan Workshops private walking tour is three hours of studio visits, built around meeting craftspeople at their benches — excellent, and entirely adult. Book it for a return visit without the children rather than trying to make it fit.

Where to sleep, and why it matters more here

A neighbourhood address beats a famous one once children are involved, because your evenings and early mornings happen within a few streets of the door. Hotel Bodoni sits in Santa Croce, near the basilica and the leather workshops, in a part of the centre that keeps working as a neighbourhood after the day visitors have gone — which means somewhere to eat at seven rather than a hunt across town.

At the other end, Helvetia&Bristol Firenze – Starhotels Collezione has an indoor pool, and in a city that offers children very little water, an afternoon swim is a more valuable amenity than it looks on paper. It is the argument for paying up, if you are going to.

The shape that works

Mornings for the booked things, afternoons for the river, the gardens and the markets, evenings close to home. Two full days done that way beat four spent queueing, and the seasons page is worth reading alongside this one — heat is the other thing that shortens a child's day here.

More on Florence


The desk

Planning Florence?

Tell us where, roughly when, and how many. A person reads every enquiry and answers from the address you give. Nothing is passed to an operator without your say-so.

It changes which operators are worth introducing you to. Nothing is passed on without your say-so.

Your details are used to answer you and, only with your agreement, to make an introduction. They are never sold and never added to a mailing list. See the privacy notice.