Paris

One colour, by rule

Stone alone would not have done it. Paris looks the way it does because the nineteenth-century rebuilding under Haussmann arrived with a rulebook: façade heights fixed in relation to street width, cornice lines carried across whole blocks, balconies required to align so that they run in continuous bands, roofs pitched and covered in grey zinc. Individual buildings surrendered the right to be interesting and the street gained the right to be beautiful.

That trade is still enforced, which is why the centre has stayed coherent. It also explains the Parisian obsession with interiors. When the outside is settled by regulation, everything expressive moves indoors: the workshops, the couture houses, the restaurants with eight tables, the hotels that look like nothing at all from the pavement.

When to come

April, May, June, September and October are the honest months, and they divide by temperament. Spring is the pretty one — chestnuts out, terraces reopening, the parks suddenly full — and the busier of the two shoulders. Autumn brings warm light, shorter queues and a cultural season starting rather than winding down.

August remains the great Parisian anomaly. Much of the city takes its holiday at once, and while the closures are less absolute than they were, a noticeable share of the small places simply shut for weeks. What is left is quieter, hotter and less itself.

Couples do well in the evenings, when the city stops performing for visitors. Several of the major museums hold one late opening a week, and a great collection at nine at night, half empty, is a different proposition from the same collection at eleven in the morning.

Getting about

Walking is the point, and the métro exists to reset you when the walking has gone too far. Distance is not what costs you here: a train across town takes minutes. Which quarter you sleep in matters far more, because the character changes street by street and your mornings and late evenings will happen within a few hundred metres of the door.

Whether it is expensive

The room is the expense. Paris eats, drinks and travels cheaply when you want it to — a counter lunch, a glass taken standing at the bar, a museum ticket, a métro fare — then asks extraordinary sums for square metres in the middle. Everything else is optional. The address is not.

At the very top, France operates a formal state distinction above five stars, and a small number of the city's houses hold it. Below that the drop is steep and the value improves quickly: a small independent hotel in a good quarter, with a lift the size of a phone box and a genuinely useful concierge, delivers most of the experience for a different order of money. Rooms run small at every tier, because this is a nineteenth-century city and its buildings were not designed around beds. Since rates swing wildly with the trade-fair and fashion calendar, comparing current stay and experience options across your exact dates is worth doing.

What is worth paying for

Location before size, every time. A small room in a quarter you want to walk out into beats a large one beside a ring road, and in a city organised around strolling that is not a close call.

After that: one properly serious meal, booked well ahead; a late museum evening; and, if the budget stretches, a room facing something — a courtyard garden, a run of zinc roofs and chimney pots, the river.

Where to stay

Splurge

A grand hotel in the central quarters, palace-tier or just below, with a serious restaurant, a spa downstairs and rooms scaled like apartments. These are institutions as much as hotels. They suit travellers who intend to use the building rather than sleep in it.

Mid-range

A small independent hotel of thirty-odd rooms in a good quarter, design-led, with a courtyard or a bar of its own. You give up the spa and the ceremony, keep the location, and often gain staff who behave like neighbours. Well suited to couples out from morning until late.

Good value

An apartment or simple hotel a little further out along a good métro line, in a residential quarter with its own market street. You trade the postcard address for more space and a neighbourhood that is not performing, and the trains make the difference in minutes rather than hours.

Paris at a glance